For Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2023 haute couture collection, creative director Daniel Roseberry sent out gowns carrying extraordinarily realistic three-dimensional heads of a wolf, a leopard, and a lion. Kylie Jenner wore the lion-head version, while Shalom Harlow, Irina Shayk, and Naomi Campbell appeared on the runway in the other animal designs. Roseberry explained the menagerie as an allusion to the animals encountered in Dante’s Inferno, giving the presentation a deliberately infernal and theatrical undertone. The sculptural heads were so lifelike that images of the collection triggered fierce online debate, particularly among animal-rights activists who initially questioned whether the garments involved real taxidermy or fur. Schiaparelli emphasized that the pieces were constructed from resin, foam, silk, and other non-fur materials. The episode became a defining example of contemporary couture’s willingness to use visual shock, hyperrealistic sculpture, and celebrity spectacle to provoke conversation far beyond the runway, while also exposing how easily luxury fashion’s pursuit of theatrical realism can be read as an ethical provocation.
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AI concept artworkArchive Record · 2020s
The 2023 Schiaparelli Animal-Head Gowns That Turned Couture into a Dantean Menagerie
Schiaparelli and Daniel Roseberry / 2020s
For Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2023 haute couture collection, creative director Daniel Roseberry sent out gowns carrying extraordinarily realistic three-dimensional heads of a wolf, a leopard, and a lion. Kylie Jenner wore the lion-head version, while Shalom Harlow, Irina Shayk, and Naomi Campbell appeared on the runway in the other animal designs. Roseberry explained the menagerie as an allusion to the animals encountered in Dante’s Inferno, giving the presentation a deliberately infernal and theatrical undertone. The sculptural heads were so lifelike that images of the collection triggered fierce online debate, particularly among animal-rights activists who initially questioned whether the garments involved real taxidermy or fur. Schiaparelli emphasized that the pieces were constructed from resin, foam, silk, and other non-fur materials. The episode became a defining example of contemporary couture’s willingness to use visual shock, hyperrealistic sculpture, and celebrity spectacle to provoke conversation far beyond the runway, while also exposing how easily luxury fashion’s pursuit of theatrical realism can be read as an ethical provocation.
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