For McQueen's Autumn/Winter 1999-2000 show, The Overlook, Leane produced one of the most technically punishing objects in their collaboration: the Coiled Corset, a form-encasing bodice made from spiraling aluminum coils. Artist Kees van der Graaf first created a concrete cast of model Laura Morgan's body, allowing Leane to build the metal structure directly around the precise contours of a human torso. Leane worked approximately 16 hours a day for ten weeks, describing the corset as both the most challenging and the personal highlight of his work with McQueen. The finished object blurred the line between couture, sculpture, armor, and bodily restraint. Its later fate underscored the extraordinary value attached to McQueen's experimental objects: in a 2017 Sotheby's New York auction, the Coiled Corset, uniquely signed by both Leane and McQueen, sold for $807,000.
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AI concept artworkArchive Record · 1990s
The Ten-Week Aluminum Torso: McQueen's Coiled Corset and the Body Cast of Laura Morgan
Shaun Leane and Alexander McQueen / 1990s
For McQueen's Autumn/Winter 1999-2000 show, The Overlook, Leane produced one of the most technically punishing objects in their collaboration: the Coiled Corset, a form-encasing bodice made from spiraling aluminum coils. Artist Kees van der Graaf first created a concrete cast of model Laura Morgan's body, allowing Leane to build the metal structure directly around the precise contours of a human torso. Leane worked approximately 16 hours a day for ten weeks, describing the corset as both the most challenging and the personal highlight of his work with McQueen. The finished object blurred the line between couture, sculpture, armor, and bodily restraint. Its later fate underscored the extraordinary value attached to McQueen's experimental objects: in a 2017 Sotheby's New York auction, the Coiled Corset, uniquely signed by both Leane and McQueen, sold for $807,000.
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