Chalayan's Spring/Summer 1998 collection, Between, transformed the runway into a stark examination of visibility, modesty, and the shifting cultural definition of the erotic body. Models appeared in a progression of black chadors of increasing length while wearing nothing else. The first model was nude except for a mask covering her face; each subsequent model was more completely concealed until the final figure was almost entirely covered, with only a narrow opening left for the eyes. The sequence produced an unsettling reversal of the conventional striptease: rather than removing clothing, the models disappeared beneath it, making concealment itself the spectacle. Chalayan described the work as being about the definition of cultural territory, and the presentation provoked readings concerning religion, female agency, surveillance, exoticization, and fashion's habit of continually relocating the so-called erogenous zones of the body.
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AI concept artworkArchive Record · 1990s
The Chador Sequence That Stripped the Catwalk to Its Last Inch of Skin
Hussein Chalayan / 1990s
Chalayan's Spring/Summer 1998 collection, Between, transformed the runway into a stark examination of visibility, modesty, and the shifting cultural definition of the erotic body. Models appeared in a progression of black chadors of increasing length while wearing nothing else. The first model was nude except for a mask covering her face; each subsequent model was more completely concealed until the final figure was almost entirely covered, with only a narrow opening left for the eyes. The sequence produced an unsettling reversal of the conventional striptease: rather than removing clothing, the models disappeared beneath it, making concealment itself the spectacle. Chalayan described the work as being about the definition of cultural territory, and the presentation provoked readings concerning religion, female agency, surveillance, exoticization, and fashion's habit of continually relocating the so-called erogenous zones of the body.
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